“My Water Is Still Hard!” What To Check Before Calling Us
If you’ve just had a water softener installed and you’re still spotting limescale or “hard” water symptoms, don’t panic. In most cases, there’s a simple fix you can check in a few minutes. This guide walks you through the exact steps we’d take on a call-out — so you can solve it fast and avoid a service charge.
Quick 2-Minute Checklist ✅
- Power & display: Is the LCD on? Check the spur above the counter isn’t switched off.
- Bypass valve: Ensure it’s in “service” position, not bypass.
- Salt level: Salt should be above the water line in the brine tank.
- Leaks: Even a dripping tap or toilet can overwhelm the softener. Try the toilet dye test.
- Hardness setting: Was it set too low? If so, breakthrough can happen.
- Hot water: Old hard water in your cylinder can take a cycle or two to clear.
Step-by-Step: Fix Most “Still Hard” Complaints
1) Confirm power and time are set
If the screen is blank or time is wrong, check the fused spur and reset the clock so regeneration happens overnight.
2) Check the bypass
Hard water will flow if the bypass is open. Ensure valves are in the correct position.
3) Check salt levels & break salt bridges
A hard crust in the brine tank (salt bridge) can stop regeneration. Break it up gently and top up salt as needed.
4) Run a manual regeneration
Force a regeneration to recharge the resin bed after resolving salt or bypass issues.
5) Rule out silent leaks
Leaking toilets are the #1 cause of softeners underperforming. Add a few drops of food colouring to the cistern; if it appears in the bowl after 25 minutes, you’ve found the culprit.
6) Confirm hardness setting
Remember: softeners remove hardness (calcium/magnesium), not TDS. Always check with a hardness test strip, not a TDS meter.
7) Allow hot cylinder to refresh
Cold water should go soft straight away, but hot water can take a cycle or two to clear.
8) Look for blending or crossover
A mis-piped connection, blending valve, or faulty mixer can allow hard water to creep back in.
9) Consider usage & capacity
Heavy usage (guests, baths, outdoor taps) can exceed the resin’s daily capacity before it regenerates.
10) Resin age or fouling
Old or fouled resin can lose effectiveness. If everything else checks out, this could be the issue.
Why you might still see limescale right after install
- Old deposits flaking off: Soft water loosens scale already in your pipes.
- Hot cylinder lag: Hard water in the tank needs a full cycle to clear.
- TDS confusion: Softeners don’t lower TDS — only hardness. Use a hardness test strip, not a TDS meter.
When to Call Us
If you’ve checked power, bypass, salt, leaks, hardness setting, and run a regeneration — and hardness persists — it’s time to get in touch. Please have ready:
- Photos of the softener, bypass valve position, and LCD screen.
- Any recent plumbing work (new mixers, showers, appliances).
- Results from a hardness strip test.
FAQ
Does a softener reduce TDS?
No — it replaces calcium/magnesium with sodium, but TDS readings may stay the same or rise slightly.
Why did the water feel soft, then hard again?
Likely causes: bypass open, salt bridge, missed regeneration, or kinked brine line.
My softener isn’t using salt — is that bad?
Yes — usually a salt bridge or blocked brine draw. Break the bridge and check hoses.
Could low pressure be the softener?
Possibly, if resin is fouled or a filter is blocked. If pressure is low only after the softener, call us.
Handy Homeowner Tips
- Keep salt just above the water line; don’t overfill.
- Use high-quality salt pellets to avoid bridging/mushing.
- Clean aerators and showerheads after installation.
- Add a prefilter if your water has iron or sediment.
Still Having Trouble?
Send us photos of your setup and LCD screen — we can usually diagnose the issue remotely.
📞 Contact Our Team